Mangiafagioli

"Bean eaters." That's apparently the nickname given to the people of Tuscany, who are well-known for their voluminous consumption of beans. In soups, pastas, and salads, the humble legume finds itself starring in countless traditional Tuscan recipes. In fact, it's the staff of life in many cultural cuisines, from Latin America to Africa to Asia.

Despite my affinity for all things porcine--and my very recently posted recipe for pasta in sausage ragu--I try as frequently as possible to cook vegetarian at home. Beans figure into much of my cooking, which relies more frequently on sources of protein other than meat and fish. There are usually a few cans of beans in the pantry--black, white, garbanzo, etc.--that manage to land in one or two of my weekly dinners. Not only are they economical, but high in nutritional value. Their high soluble fiber content helps trap and remove cholesterol before being absorbed by the body.

While I typically stock up on canned beans with every trip to the market, I tried a few weeks ago to cook dried white cannelini beans from scratch. While the canned variety are great in a pinch, it's hard to beat home-cooked beans when you have the time. Not only does their texture tend to be more firm versus canned (which have been sitting in liquid for who-knows-how-long), but they are usually less salty and more flavorful.

I consulted Cooks' Illustrated for their technique for cooking dried beans, and was happy to learn that a traditional overnight soak is no longer necessary. This step was always a deal-breaker for me, as it generally took much more planning ahead than I was willing to do. When you do have a couple of spare hours, their technique is a fairly effortless affair, and results in a bean that is firm on the outside and creamy within, and is tremendously superior in flavor.

The following is adapted from a recipe published by Cooks' Illustrated for a Tuscan White Bean Soup. It's the first step to making the soup, and results in perfectly cooked beans that can be applied in any other recipe that calls for beans.

Home-cooked White Beans

6 oz. pancetta, diced (to make vegetarian, substitute with a 2-inch piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano rind)

12 c. water

1 lb. dried cannelini beans, rinsed and picked over

1 large onion, unpeeled and halved

4 garlic cloves, unpeeled

1 bay leaf

1 tsp. salt

In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, cook pancetta over medium heat until golden (omit this step if using Parmigiano rind). Add water, beans, onion, garlic, bay leaf, and salt (and Parmigiano rind, if using). Bring to boil over medium heat. Cover pot partially, reduce heat to low, and simmer--stirring occasionally--until beans are almost tender, approximately 1-1.25 hours. Remove from heat, cover completely, and allow to stand until beans are tender, approximately 30 minutes. Drain beans, reserving liquid and discarding flavoring ingredients. Spread beans in an even layer on a baking sheet and let cool. The beans are now ready for use, however you like.

I've followed this technique twice now and used the beans in three different applications. On my first go round, I used them in a hearty bean and vegetable soup, with carrots, celery, and Swiss chard. When draining the beans, I discarded the flavoring ingredients but reserved the cooking liquid. This, I added to the vegetables after they had been sauteed, and allowed it to simmer for a few minutes, along with a sprig of fresh rosemary and a little fresh water. Lastly, in went the beans for a final simmer, along with a little salt and freshly-cracked black pepper. Drizzle each bowl of the finished soup with a little balsamic vinegar when serving.

On my next, I stewed them with sauteed, sliced fennel in my homemade marinara. It was delicious as is, but could have been made heartier and non-vegetarian with the addition of a little sauteed Italian sausage.

Finally, I used the leftover beans in marinara and combined them with drained and rinsed canned black beans to make a black-and-white bean stew. I sauteed some garlic, onion, and red bell pepper in olive oil, added the beans, and allowed it to simmer in some vegetable stock balanced 50/50 with fresh water. Seasoned with salt and pepper, along with a little chili powder and cumin, it changed what began as an Italian-style bean dish into something south-of-the-border(ish).

Photo: Harvard School of Public Health