Inyo, Ferndale, Michigan

When I first saw the signs heralding the arrival of Inyo, a new, Pan-Asian eatery along Ferndale's Woodward corridor, I asked myself if this city could sustain yet another Asian restaurant. With two Chinese takeouts, two Thai restaurants, two sushi bars, and one Indian restaurant, could this town really stand to have another join the plethora of Asian eateries near the intersection of 9 Mile and Woodward? If the food is good, I guess it doesn't hurt.

After a four-day weekend traveling along the northern Michigan coast, Todd and I decided to ease out of our holiday by having dinner at the latest addition to Ferndale's food scene. Inyo is primarily a sushi bar, but with a fair selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees for those who don't care to partake in the standard offering of sashimi, nigiri, and maki. In fact, with the actual sushi bar tucked into the back of the restaurant, you could almost forget that it's there.

The place is pretty stylish, compared to the rest of its counterparts in the neighborhood. Dark, tiled floors, stark-white light fixtures, and red, muralled walls create a modern feel that outdoes the other aforementioned establishments. The curved cocktail bar facing Woodward Avenue is set aflame at night, giving the place even more visual interest. It gets a minus point, however, for the blonde woman at the door wearing a kimono. A little over the top, and borderline tacky.

In addition to a wide selection of beer, wine, and cocktails, Inyo's menu features dishes primarily of the Japanese-Korean-Chinese variety. Not exactly the "Pan-Asian" seletion I was expecting, but acceptable. Soups include the standby Miso and Hot-and-Sour, while Appetizers run the gamut from panko-encrusted oysters to chicken lettuce wraps. The entree menu features a wide variety of seafood dishes (the evening's special was fresh grouper, prepared steamed, fried, or sauteed), as well as poultry and meat dishes, including Chicken Katsu (panko-encrusted chicken cutlet) and Beef Karubi (a.k.a. Kalbi, the Korean-style marinated short ribs).

Not feeling up for a full entree, I opted for a couple of appetizers as my dinner: Pan-fried Ebi (Shrimp) Gyoza and Panko-encrusted Calamari. Unfortunately, the kitchen was out of the gyoza, so our server suggested the Chicken Spring Roll in its place. Served with a cherry-dipping ginger sauce, the spring roll was light and crispy, and filled with shredded chicken instead of the typical ground chicken. The calamari were likewise crisp and tender, and served with a side of sweet chili condiment. In a rare move, Todd ordered two rolls: a Shrimp Tempura Roll and Spicy Scallop Roll. Each was full of flavor and, unlike the rolls across the street at Sakana, these were substantial in size. While I would never consider myself a sushi expert, these were satisfyingly tasty, if not necessarily authentic. Todd and I paired our dinners with glasses from the wine list, a petit Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, respectively.

At the end of our dinner, we were offered the option of two desserts, which we declined: Mango Custard and Tiramisu. Why an Asian restaurant would have Tiramisu on its menu, I can not understand, but along with the kimono lady garners the place another minus point. In the end, the bill came to $55 for two, inclusive of wine.

As Downtown Ferndale's newest restaurant, Inyo hardly fills a void as far as variety is concerned. I can't really fault the restaurant, as much as our city planners for allowing another Asian restaurant onto the scene. I should be grateful, I guess, that it occupies one of the handful of empty storefronts downtown. As far as the food goes, however, Inyo does a decent job--it's fresh, flavorful, and full of variety.