OTOM, Chicago, Illinois

After a few thwarted attempts to visit friends in Chicago, I was finally able to swing a last minute trip this past Thursday. With nothing more on my agenda than to try a new restaurant (to me, anyway) and to spend a day at the Art Institute, I set about to find the latest and greatest addition to the city's ever-burgeoning restaurant scene.

From Urban Belly to Xoco to Purple Pig, I gathered recommendations from friends, magazines, and blogs. Go carnivore? Herbivore? Asian? Latin? It was all too overwhelming. Fortunately, my friend Ronda had just purchased a $30 Groupon worth $60 at OTOM, in Chicago's Fulton Market district. For two on a budget, this sealed the deal. OTOM it was.

In the heart of the city's meatpacking district, OTOM sits one block away from The Publican, the pork-laden menu of which I glowingly reviewed on this site last year. It's also next door to sister restaurant, MOTO, which has gotten great reviews for the "future food" approach led by chef-slash-molecular gastronomist Homaro Cantu. The brainchildren of Chicago restaurateur Joseph DeVito, MOTO features post-modern cuisine in a futuristic "molecular tasting room" setting, while OTOM features modern comfort food in a chic, industrial, brick-walled former gallery interior.

The menu at OTOM shouts "comfort" like the big, fluffy sofa in your parents' rumpus room growing up, only trimmed in orange resin and upholstered with shiny, white vinyl. Macaroni and cheese, fried chicken, and fish and chips get a modern makeover by Executive Chef Thomas Elliott Bowman and his team. Feeling carnivorous, I selected the Pork Tenderloin entree, brined and smoked, and served with a creamy white bean puree, sauteed swiss chard, and dressed with a savory piquillo pepper sauce. Ronda took the herbivore route, opting for the daily Forager Plate special, which featured a substantial red rice risotto cake, flowering kale and shiitake mushroom sautee, and a chunk of sweet corn on the cob. Our meals were preceded by a barbecued pork belly appetizer, served atop thinly sliced fresh pineapple and a poblano sauce.

All three of these dishes were spectacular, from the sweet and salty belly with its hint of heat from the poblano, to my smoky tenderloin and its unexpectedly standout white bean accompaniment, to Ronda's red rice cake and its satisfyingly crunchy--yet lightly airy--breadcrumb crust. Our only complaint--which we were both disappointed to admit--was our shared side of macaroni and cheese, served in a preciously miniature cast iron dish. Consisting of twisted, trofie pasta tossed in a creamy white cheddar sauce, the mac and cheese was overwhelmingly salty, almost to the point where I thought, perhaps, the chef had accidentally knocked the contents of an entire cellar of salt into the sauce, yet served it anyway. Its only saving grace was the accompanying corn fritter, chock full of whole corn kernels, lightly battered and deliciously sweet.

Unfortunately, with bellies completely full from our appetizer and entrees, we had no room left for dessert. The menu sounded intriguing, however, featuring a Sazerac baba, soaked in a rye syrup and accompanied by absinthe ice cream, and a lavender-polenta honey cake, with sweet corn ice cream and peach coulis.

Adding a glass of rose' for me and a whiskey cocktail for Ronda, our bill for dinner came out to a reasonable $81 with tax. Subtracting the $30 savings from the Ronda's Groupon, our final tally of $51 was more than satisfying to our pocketbooks. At the end of the evening, however, Ronda and I debated whether we'd return to OTOM. If invited on someone else's dime: definitely, but with all of the new and exciting joints opening left and right in the city, OTOM is not one we would put on regular restaurant rotation. I would, however, fancy a feast at MOTO some day, to satisfy a "future food" fix.

Mae's, Pleasant Ridge, Michigan

"Reinventing your neighborhood cafe." That's the tagline for Mae's, a new eatery in Pleasant Ridge which opened earlier this year in the space formerly occupied by Anna's Coffee Shop. Owners Sean and Jessica McCarthy leased the old Anna's following the death of the eponymous owner, and have updated the menu while retaining its original '50s charm.

Todd and I finally had a chance to check this place out, after driving past it many times driving northbound on Woodward. Blink, and you'll miss the joint. It's so tiny that, even as we were walking up to it, Todd kept asking where it was. It's located at 24060 Woodward Avenue in Pleasant Ridge, next door to Susan's Special Needs, a retailer of apparel and accessories for people with cancer and other special needs.

A quick review of the menu revealed a wide variety of options, from the usual breakfast items like omelettes, benedicts, and pancakes, to lunchtime favorites like deli sandwiches, burgers, and salads. On the side, Mae's features many local products, including Faygo sodas and Better Made Potato Chips. The rest of the menu features a number of unique items, including Aebelskivers (Scandinavian stuffed pancakes), potato latkes with applesauce, deep-fried Oreos, and the Portland Special sandwich, featuring chicken tenders hand-battered in a--get this--Cap'n Crunch cereal batter.

I immediately ordered a Faygo Redpop, which was served from an old school glass bottle. I'm a stickler for ice cold soda, so I asked for a glass of ice and was quickly obliged. As I perused the menu, I waivered between breakfast or lunch: do I go with my favorite breakfast indulgence, Biscuits & Gravy, or do I throw caution to the wind and order a double Butter Burger with Cheese? I flipped a coin in my mind and opted for the Biscuits & Gravy, and will simply have to return to satisfy my hanker for the butterburger. Todd went the breakfast route without question, ordering the Hippie from the Omelets & Scrambles section of the menu, with sauteed "'shrooms," onions, green peppers, spinach, and tomatoes.

My Biscuits & Gravy were served with eggs on the side, softly scrambled and melt-in-your mouth good. Ladled with a deliciously savory sausage gravy, one of my biscuits was slightly overdone while the other was absolutely perfect. They both tasted delicious, but texture was inconsistent. Taken as a whole, though, a definite thumbs up. Todd's Hippie arrived as an omelet, though he actually preferred it to be prepared as a scramble. Nevertheless, he was pleased with his order, which was chock full of sauteed vegetables and cheese, and served with a side of crispy hash browns, rye toast, and housemade jam.

At just under $18, breakfast for two at Mae's was a decent deal, given the quality of the food and service. I did not notice a single menu item over $8 or $9, so Mae's is definitely an affordable option. We'll return to Mae's for sure, provided we get there at a non-peak time--the place only has table seating for about 26, plus 8 or so stools at the counter. Also, it's open only 'til 4pm, so any visit we make will have to be for breakfast or lunch.

Check it out for yourself. For more information, visit http://www.maesdetroit.com/

Photo courtesy of http://www.maesdetroit.com/

Inyo, Ferndale, Michigan

When I first saw the signs heralding the arrival of Inyo, a new, Pan-Asian eatery along Ferndale's Woodward corridor, I asked myself if this city could sustain yet another Asian restaurant. With two Chinese takeouts, two Thai restaurants, two sushi bars, and one Indian restaurant, could this town really stand to have another join the plethora of Asian eateries near the intersection of 9 Mile and Woodward? If the food is good, I guess it doesn't hurt.

After a four-day weekend traveling along the northern Michigan coast, Todd and I decided to ease out of our holiday by having dinner at the latest addition to Ferndale's food scene. Inyo is primarily a sushi bar, but with a fair selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees for those who don't care to partake in the standard offering of sashimi, nigiri, and maki. In fact, with the actual sushi bar tucked into the back of the restaurant, you could almost forget that it's there.

The place is pretty stylish, compared to the rest of its counterparts in the neighborhood. Dark, tiled floors, stark-white light fixtures, and red, muralled walls create a modern feel that outdoes the other aforementioned establishments. The curved cocktail bar facing Woodward Avenue is set aflame at night, giving the place even more visual interest. It gets a minus point, however, for the blonde woman at the door wearing a kimono. A little over the top, and borderline tacky.

In addition to a wide selection of beer, wine, and cocktails, Inyo's menu features dishes primarily of the Japanese-Korean-Chinese variety. Not exactly the "Pan-Asian" seletion I was expecting, but acceptable. Soups include the standby Miso and Hot-and-Sour, while Appetizers run the gamut from panko-encrusted oysters to chicken lettuce wraps. The entree menu features a wide variety of seafood dishes (the evening's special was fresh grouper, prepared steamed, fried, or sauteed), as well as poultry and meat dishes, including Chicken Katsu (panko-encrusted chicken cutlet) and Beef Karubi (a.k.a. Kalbi, the Korean-style marinated short ribs).

Not feeling up for a full entree, I opted for a couple of appetizers as my dinner: Pan-fried Ebi (Shrimp) Gyoza and Panko-encrusted Calamari. Unfortunately, the kitchen was out of the gyoza, so our server suggested the Chicken Spring Roll in its place. Served with a cherry-dipping ginger sauce, the spring roll was light and crispy, and filled with shredded chicken instead of the typical ground chicken. The calamari were likewise crisp and tender, and served with a side of sweet chili condiment. In a rare move, Todd ordered two rolls: a Shrimp Tempura Roll and Spicy Scallop Roll. Each was full of flavor and, unlike the rolls across the street at Sakana, these were substantial in size. While I would never consider myself a sushi expert, these were satisfyingly tasty, if not necessarily authentic. Todd and I paired our dinners with glasses from the wine list, a petit Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, respectively.

At the end of our dinner, we were offered the option of two desserts, which we declined: Mango Custard and Tiramisu. Why an Asian restaurant would have Tiramisu on its menu, I can not understand, but along with the kimono lady garners the place another minus point. In the end, the bill came to $55 for two, inclusive of wine.

As Downtown Ferndale's newest restaurant, Inyo hardly fills a void as far as variety is concerned. I can't really fault the restaurant, as much as our city planners for allowing another Asian restaurant onto the scene. I should be grateful, I guess, that it occupies one of the handful of empty storefronts downtown. As far as the food goes, however, Inyo does a decent job--it's fresh, flavorful, and full of variety.

The Publican, Chicago, Illinois

A spectacular meal shared with friends during a recent trip to Chicago inspired me to resume blogging about food. "Kitchenette" captures my mindless musings on food, from the most mundane preparations at home to the tastiest dining experiences on the road.

Christening Kitchenette's foray into the blogosphere is this recounting of an inspired dinner enjoyed at The Publican, a lively eatery in Chicago's West Loop neighborhood. From the brilliant minds behind critical darlings avec and Blackbird, The Publican has become renowned for its adventuresome menu and frenetic energy. It holds its post at 845 W. Fulton Market, amidst the Windy City's gentrifying meat packing district, and serves up a magnificent selection of the most indulgent ingredients: carefully-sourced seafood, certified organic pork, artisanal cheeses, and a vast menu of domestic and international beers highlight the menu.

The evening of my virgin experience at The Publican, I dined with six mostly-adventurous foodie friends, seated communally at a long table in the center of the restaurant. The idea of communal dining typically tends to turn me off, but this time, it totally enhanced the experience. Neighbors unabashedly chimed in with recommendations, queried over others' selections, and sometimes stopped just short of asking for a taste. Over a robust glass of Old #38 stout from California's North Coast Brewing Company, I pored through the menu with my co-diners, deliberating which selections would offer a well-rounded representation of what The Publican had to offer. We, of course, started with a round of Crispy Pork Rinds, which arrived in brown paper cones, warm from the fryer and seasoned lightly with salt and spice. To accompany the pork rinds, we shared a charcuterie plate of a terrined country pate, pork pie, head cheese, and boudin noir (blood sausage), along with cornichons, caperberries, and mustards. Then, we were treated on-the-house to a couple of cones of freshly-made fries, accompanied by creamy, garlicky aioli. We knew we were in for a fantastic evening.

A few among our group had dined at The Publican several times before, and offered their recommendations. However, most of us had never been and were looking forward to what was to come. I was disappointed to learn that my selection, the Monterey Bay sardines, were gone for the evening. So, I settled on the "Little Gem Salad" of Michigan greens, fennel, radish, and muscatel-buttermilk vinaigrette, topped with crisped pig's ear, as well as a pot of pork rillettes served with kumquat marmalade and crunchy crostini. Around the table, my co-diners indulged in unctuous Quebecois sweetbreads with bacon and mustard greens; country pork ribs with a sweet-sour Asian-inspired glaze; seared, glazed pork belly; a Basque stew of mussels, shrimp, salt cod, and scallops, served with chunky bread and red pepper rouille; and lastly, a potee--a slow braise of pork shoulder, loin, and chorizo. Our seventh, who had filled himself up on appetizers, opted for the only vegetable among our bunch: simply roasted asparagus topped with crushed peanuts.

Each dish made a round robin amongst our group, and we feasted on nibbles of each others' selections. It was a wonderful way to share the experience, and prompted tireless conversation about food and cooking. We ogled the orders of our neighbors, especially the order of jewel-like roasted beets with burrata cheese, and the trio of Serrano, La Quercia, and Prosciutto hams ordered by the diners seated beside me. The only thing about The Publican that slightly disappointed was the minimal dessert selection: aside from a variety of artisanal cheeses, the dessert menu was comprised of a dark chocolate budino (bread pudding), a waffle with pear and honey butter, and panna cotta with roasted beets. Although I would have gladly tried the latter option, none of my co-diners opted for dessert, so we all settled on coffees to finish our meal. No worries, though--this minor shortfall in the menu was more than offset by the stupendous meal we had just enjoyed. Once the bill arrived, we were pleased to find it came to only $40 per person--a bargain, as far as any of us were concerned, for such a fantastic meal.

Overall, The Publican deserves all of the accolades it has received in recent months, as do chefs Paul Kahan and Brian Huston for their deliciously indulgent menu and commitment to well-sourced ingredients. In this light and airy space, with its wooded decor, globe chandeliers, and pig-themed murals by local artists, the team has succeeded in adding another gem to the crown of Chicago's food scene.

For more information about The Publican, visit their website at http://www.thepublicanrestaurant.com/