Herbivores: You may want to pass on this particular blog entry and skip ahead to my next one on biscuits, or jump back to a previous veggie-friendly entry, such as my recent writings on home-cooked beans. That's because this one is dedicated to the omnivores--specifically those who lean toward carnivore, and are not especially squeamish about less "choice" cuts of meat.During a particularly lonely exile to the hinterlands of the northern suburbs of Metro Detroit (okay, I was dog-sitting for my vacationing brother in Rochester), I took an opportunity to experiment in the kitchen with a dish I'd enjoyed several times in restaurants but never at home: Pork Belly.
Ever since my recent trip to the Philippines, where I encountered pork belly (known locally as liempo) in countless culinary applications, I've been obsessed with the stuff. Roasted, deep fried, and braised, I couldn't get enough of it. I even happened upon a fast food version at a food court vendor called "Liempo Boy." I secretly adopted that as my superhero name.
In recent years, pork belly--which is, basically, a fresh, uncured, unsmoked slab of belly bacon--has become the darling of chefs here in the U.S. I recently enjoyed it roasted and served atop a salad at Lola in Cleveland, glazed and seared at The Publican in Chicago, and sliced and served as a salumi at Boccalone in San Francisco. Cuisines from Asia to Europe to Latin America favor this humble cut, due to its relatively low cost, but richness of flavor.
I was recently able to get my hands on a nice cut of pork belly, with a nice proportion of meat sandwiched between two layers of unctuous fat, and capped with a thick layer of rind. This last part is, usually, what turns people off the most (even those who are typically bacon-eaters), but it's my most favorite. Growing up in an ethnic household, I was exposed to pork rind all my eating life--from the crispy skin of lechon (whole, spit-roasted pig) to the crunchy pork rinds we snacked on, dipping them in a sauce of spicy vinegar and garlic. The Publican restaurant in Chicago offered a pork rind appetizer, which was airy and crispy, and absolutely melt-in-your-mouth delicious.
With this fresh belly, I knew I wanted to make sure I maximized its full crunchy crackling potential. After consulting several on-line recipes, I finally settled on a treatment offered by Jamie Oliver, the "Naked Chef." His recipe was simple, and his technique, effortless. After a brief high-temperature roasting to sear the meat and crisp the skin, he lowers the heat and finishes roasting the pork belly atop aromatic vegetables, which ultimately he uses to flavor his gravy. I borrowed his recipe for technique rather than ingredients, instead devising my own soy sauce-based glaze which, when combined with the pan juices, made for a delicious sauce on its own.
Roasted Soy-Lacquered Pork Belly
1 1-lb. slab fresh pork belly
salt & pepper, to taste
1 c. low-sodium soy sauce
1/2 c. honey
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp. ginger, grated
Juice of 1 orange
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Using a sharp knife, score the skin of the pork belly, being careful not to cut too far into the fat. Sprinkle salt into the surface of the skin and into the scores. Brush off any excess salt. Turn pork over and salt and pepper the underside. Place pork belly in a non-stick or foil-lined roasting pan, skin side up, and roast in the oven until the skin has begun to crisp and turn golden brown, approximately 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a saucepan, combine the remaining ingredients and simmer over medium heat, until reduced into a thick glaze. Set aside.
Remove pork from the oven and baste with pan juices. If there is an excessive amount of fat in the pan, pour some off or remove with a turkey baster. Lower temperature to 350 degrees and return the pork to the oven to roast for an additional 45 minutes.
Remove pork from the oven again, and pour off any excessive fat. Brush the top of the skin and the sides with the glaze. Return to the oven for a final 15 minutes, brushing with more glaze about half-way through.
Remove pork from the pan and allow to rest, approximately 10 minutes. Slice into 3/4-inch strips or into 2x2-inch chunks, spooning pan juices over, upon plating. If there is any reserved soy glaze, you may wish to spoon that over, as well. Serves 4 as an entree or 6 as a first course.
For the record, here's Jamie's original recipe for Pork Belly Roast:
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